London Fashion Week: Very British




Victoria Beckham celebrated her 10th fashion birthday at home. Beckham, who usually shows in New York shows, invited her guests to the Thaddaeus Ropac Gallery on Dover Street, where her flagship store is located. In the first row, as always, was the rest of the fashion-conscious family, husband David and their four children, Brooklyn, Romeo, Cruz and Harper. Also there: David Furnish, the husband and godfather of Elton John for two of the young Beckhams.

Although according to the fashion designer the collection should not be explicitly retrospective, but it contains a lot of Beckham bestsellers and typical combinations: male cuts broken by fine satin bands, minimalist dresses with a free back, flared pants.

New are the tight trousers with split on the fore. Beckham shows them in different colors – claret, caramel, black, white, blue and flame red – and eleven outfits: blazers and tunics, knitted dresses and lace tops. For the final applause, the designer himself appears in one of the striking trousers (in black to a beige bodysuit and a blazer in the same tone).

Just like the shapes, the color palette of the collection is reserved and minimalistic: the first was a white trouser suit, the last one was a black outfit of a pair of trousers, shirt and coat, suitably combined with silver loafers. In between, the fashion for the coming spring was painted in neutral colors, here and there loosened by prints and a blitz red. The combinations of light blue and mud brown were also successful.

After the show, guests were welcomed by animal rights activists without fur signs and boos. However, no fur fashion was shown during the show.

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Very British!

Politics was also Erdem Moralioglu. The Canadian is known for his ties from previous eras. His current designs are inspired by Victorian fashion. High collars, skirts on the floor, lots of lace. This time he wants to place a memorial for the two gay and lesbian activists Frederick Park and Ernest Boulton.

In their women's clothing, the two men had shocked the kingdom before they had to fight for freedom in a much-needed trial in 1870. Today, in honor of them, there is a commemorative plaque in London's Bloomsbury district, where Moralioglu recently entered his studio.

This gave him the idea to use his collection as a tribute to the crossdressers of the late 19th century: blazers with double row buttons, slippers and classic suits he faced with high-necked dresses with puffed sleeves. Exactly as Erdem, like the quotations from previous eras, are the flower patterns and bold colors.

From the girl to fashion designer

No homecoming, but a premiere celebrated Alexa Chung. That she knows about fashion has long been known. Her fashion talent brought her the attention of the gossip press for the first time and now 3.1 million followers on Instagram. The step from the IT girl to the designer last year was logical. The collection, now on show in London, was not the first of the 34-year-olds, but the first one she showed in the official London show calendar.

For the coming spring, Chung put together a best of the past decades and fashion styles that inspired her when she started her trendsetter: jeans like in the sixties, suede coats like they did in the 1970s, patent leather and dungarees like in the 80s. Shoppers, straw bags and silk scarves, printed as a tribute to luxury seaside resorts with place names such as Magate and Inverness, are used as accessories.

A typical English affair was also presented by Matty Bovan. His hats are up to half a meter high and a colorful mish-batter of plastic beetles, banknotes, spoons, woolen threads and flowers. The hip bags that Bovan has oversized for the American luxury label Coach are just as colorful but definitely better to buy. They are much too big for the hips, so the models carry them over their shoulders or under their arms.

JW Anderson is also back at a transatlantic collaboration at the beginning. Following rainbow soles last year, Chucks are designed for Converse this time standing on fluted platform soles in blue and rubber brown. The solid bottom stands in stark contrast to the actually slim design of the sneaker classic. Given the hype about ugly shoes, the sneakers will probably become sellers.


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